Camping in the Dordogne: whether you’re staying in a tent, caravan or motorhome, there’s a pitch to

Every spring, camping enthusiasts face the same dilemma: Brittany, the banks of the Loire, or the south of France? We’ve known our answer for a long time. For a camping holiday, the Dordogne ticks just about every box: a river for swimming, villages built of pale stone, markets redolent of strawberries and walnuts, and a choice of pitches that few other departments in France can match.

Let’s set the scene straight away. We’re talking here about organised campsites – those with a reception, toilet facilities, a gate and often a manager who knows his regulars by their first names. Wild camping is off the agenda: in the Dordogne, it’s strictly regulated, and the region’s campsites do the job far better than a random patch of field.

The Périgord: a region tailor-made for camping

In the north of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, the Périgord is characterised by four distinct regions, each offering a different holiday atmosphere.

The Périgord Noir, around Sarlat, remains the most popular: the hilltop castles of Beynac and Castelnaud, the bastide town of Domme, the cliffs of La Roque-Gageac, the prehistoric sites at Les Eyzies and in the Vézère valley, including Lascaux in Montignac. The ‘Périgord Pourpre’, near Bergerac, swaps rocky landscapes for vineyards and wine estates. The ‘Périgord Blanc’, around Périgueux, is more low-key and urban. Finally, the ‘Green Périgord’ is home to our favourite campsites for their tranquillity: Brantôme and its looping river, Saint-Jean-de-Côle, and the forests of the Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Park.

When it comes to nature and activities, the department needs no further introduction. You can canoe down the Dordogne or the Vézère, go fishing by a pond, swim in a clean, cool river, cycle up the hillsides, or visit a cave when the sun gets too strong. Between one attraction and the next, there’s always a farmers’ market or a listed village just fifteen minutes away.

Choosing the right pitch

Choosing your campsite is already half the battle when it comes to your holiday. At most campsites, pitches range from 80 to over 120 square metres, bordered by hedges or trees, with or without an electricity hook-up. The available power varies from one campsite to another, and this is something to check before booking if you’re travelling with a fridge, a griddle or an electric cool box.

The questions to ask yourself are always the same. Shade or sun, depending on the season. A pitch by the water’s edge, pleasant during the day but a bit damp in the early morning. Distance to the toilet blocks and the swimming pool. The slope of the ground, which shouldn’t be underestimated in such a hilly country. Space available for the awning and for the car.

One habit that saves us time: phoning the campsite rather than booking everything online. At the small, family-run campsites – the sort we love – the reception staff know every pitch and can advise which is suitable for a two-person tent or a six-metre caravan. A five-minute phone call often saves a week of compromises.

In a tent: up close with nature

A tent remains our favourite way to spend the night in the Périgord, and not just out of nostalgia. The prices are the most affordable, bookings remain flexible outside July and August, and there’s nothing to stop you from moving to a different valley every three days.

What really wins us over, though, is the space we occupy. A tent fits in anywhere: under the oak trees, in nooks and crannies that large vehicles can’t reach, on gently sloping terraces overlooking the river. These are often the most beautiful pitches on a campsite – the ones reserved for those travelling light.

Two tips from experience. Look for shade, because the south-western sun beats down hard in August and a tent left in the sun becomes unbearable from nine o’clock in the morning. If you’re travelling with your family, choose a pitch close to the toilet and shower facilities. It’s so much more convenient, especially at night. If, however, you prefer peace and quiet, campsites offer pitches away from the main activity areas for a truly nature-centred stay.

In a caravan: the comfort of a base camp

A caravan has an advantage that other options don’t. You set it up on the first day, unhitch it, and your car is free again. In the Dordogne, where the places of interest are spread over some thirty kilometres, this detail makes a huge difference: Sarlat in the morning, a cave in the afternoon, a market the next day, and the caravan hasn’t moved.

It’s also the option for peaceful comfort. A proper bed, electricity for the fridge, storage space, and an awning that doubles as a living area on rainy days. Because it does rain sometimes, even here, and a two-week stay without a single shower is down to sheer luck.

On a practical note, make sure you specify the dimensions of your caravan when booking. Many campsites in the Périgord are old, with narrow paths between the trees, and not all pitches are equally suitable for manoeuvring. A flat pitch, a good hook-up and unobstructed access are better than a magnificent view at the end of an impossible bend.

In a motorhome: travelling without missing out on anything

A motorhome brings the best of both worlds together. We remain self-sufficient; we can decide at breakfast that we’d like to spend the night somewhere else, and we still have our own kitchen and bathroom facilities.

In the Dordogne, many campsites have pitches specifically designed for motorhomes: stabilised access, waste disposal points, water taps and electricity. Staying at a campsite rather than a parking area makes a real difference. You can enjoy the many benefits of campsites: toilet facilities, a swimming pool, electricity, Wi-Fi (when it works) and, above all, a charming setting for your holiday, in the shade of a tree or by the river. In short, the comfort of a proper pitch for just a few euros more. For a stay of a few days exploring the Vézère Valley, the Bergerac vineyards or the villages of the Dordogne Valley, a campsite is the clear winner every time.

Facilities that make all the difference to your stay

A quality campsite isn’t judged by its list of services, but certain facilities really do make or break a family holiday: a heated swimming pool or small water park, a playground, a convenience shop, an evening snack bar for when nobody fancies cooking, a launderette, and activities and entertainment in July and August. Campsites that are closest to nature tend to focus on guided walks, fishing and evenings under the trees – and that suits us just fine.

Many campsites also offer rental accommodation, such as mobile homes or wooden chalets. It’s another way of travelling – more comfortable, but less flexible and further removed from nature than holidays in a caravan, tent or motorhome on pitches.

When to visit, and at what price

June and September remain our favourite times of year. The water in the Dordogne is still lovely, the markets in Sarlat are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, pitch prices drop significantly, and the campsites are less crowded. However, every season has its advantages. July and August bring that summer holiday atmosphere: campsites are full and there are queues outside the canoe hire shops, but there’s also entertainment for children on the campsites.

Two Périgords, two ways to spend your holidays, and the choice depends mainly on your mood and the age of your children. In both cases, it’s best to book early for the best-located pitches – those by the river or under the big trees. These are always the first to be booked, and there’s a good reason for that.